Last summer we flew into Newcastle, picked up a rental car, and spent several days driving through northeast England — through the city, across the countryside, and through a tunnel under the River Tyne that taught me an expensive lesson I am about to share with you.
Driving in England is genuinely enjoyable. The roads are well maintained, the scenery is spectacular, and the freedom to explore places that trains and buses don’t reach is worth the effort of adjusting to a different way of driving. But it is different — meaningfully different — and going in without preparation is a mistake.
The Fundamental Difference: Everything is Mirrored
In England, you drive on the left side of the road. The steering wheel is on the right side of the car. You overtake on the right. You give way to traffic on your right at roundabouts. Everything instinctive about driving in America is reversed.
This sounds more alarming than it actually is. Within an hour or two of driving, your brain begins to adjust. The car feels strange at first — reaching for the gear shift and finding it on your left, checking mirrors that are in unfamiliar positions, sitting closer to the center of the road than you expect. But the adjustment happens faster than most people anticipate.
The moments where you are most likely to revert to American instincts are at quiet intersections and parking lots — places where there is no traffic to follow and your brain has to make the decision entirely on its own. These are the moments to be most deliberate. When in doubt, think: keep left, keep left.
Renting a Car: What to Know Before You Book
I reserved my car through Alamo in advance of my trip, which I strongly recommend. Showing up at a rental counter in England without a reservation, particularly in summer, is a poor strategy.
Insurance: Get it for international rentals
I rarely purchase rental car insurance at home because my personal auto insurance covers domestic rentals. However, because I was renting in a foreign country, I purchased the rental car insurance offered by Alamo. This is a decision I stand by. Your U.S. auto insurance policy may or may not extend to international rentals — check with your insurer specifically before you travel, and get the answer in writing. If there is any ambiguity, buy the coverage. The cost is modest compared to the potential exposure.
Automatic vs. Manual: This is Critical
Here is something most American travelers do not think about until they are standing at the rental counter: a significant portion of rental cars in England are manual transmission. Europeans drive manual cars as a matter of course, and the rental fleet reflects that.
When I arrived, roughly half the available cars were stick shifts. I grew up driving a manual, so technically I could have managed. But I made the deliberate decision to book an automatic — and I am glad I did.
Think about it this way. Driving on the opposite side of the road, with the steering wheel on the right, navigating unfamiliar roads and signs, with GPS directions in an unfamiliar road system — that is already a significant amount of new information to process simultaneously. Adding a manual transmission to that equation, with the gear shift on your left hand rather than your right where you are accustomed to it, would have added considerable stress and complexity to an already demanding driving environment.
If you have never driven a stick shift in your life, this is not the trip to learn. Book an automatic explicitly when you reserve — do not assume the car will be automatic. Check. Confirm. And if the rental agent offers you a manual when you arrive, you are entitled to request the automatic you reserved.
Roundabouts: Master These Before You Drive
England does not use four-way stops. Instead, wherever roads meet, you will almost certainly find a roundabout. They range from tiny single-lane circles in small villages to massive multi-lane spirals that look genuinely intimidating on approach.
The rules are straightforward once you internalize them. Traffic already on the roundabout has priority — you give way to vehicles approaching from your right. You always enter the roundabout by turning left and travel clockwise. Signal left when you are about to exit.
Your GPS is invaluable here. Google Maps and similar navigation apps will tell you which exit to take — “take the third exit” — which removes the need to read confusing road signs while simultaneously managing the roundabout. Listen carefully to your GPS before you enter, not while you are already in it.
Large Roundabouts
Those with four or more exits — present an additional challenge that caught me out twice. These major roundabouts often have two or more entry lanes, and the lane you choose on approach determines which exits you can reasonably reach once you are on the roundabout. Get it wrong and you may find yourself in the outside lane when your exit requires the inside lane — with heavy traffic between you and where you need to be.
That is exactly what happened to me, twice. On two separate occasions at large, busy roundabouts, I entered in the wrong lane. With traffic flowing around me on all sides, maneuvering across to reach my exit was not safely possible. Both times I had no choice but to go all the way around the roundabout a second time, this time in the correct lane, and take my exit on the second pass.
It is not a disaster — it costs you a minute and a little dignity — but it is entirely avoidable. Before you approach a large roundabout, use whatever time and sight lines you have to visualize which exit you need and which entry lane puts you in the best position to reach it. Your GPS will help, but the key is to look ahead, think ahead, and choose your lane before you arrive at the roundabout rather than while you are already in it.
My advice: slow down on approach. Not so slow that you hold up traffic, but slow enough to assess the situation, check for vehicles already on the roundabout, identify your exit, and get into the correct entry lane. Hesitation is far preferable to forcing your way across lanes of moving traffic. English drivers are accustomed to the occasional uncertain tourist — they will wait.
Narrow Country Roads: Slow Down and Be Patient
Nothing quite prepares an American driver for the narrow roads of England — and Scotland is even more dramatic. Hedgerows and stone walls crowd both sides of a lane that appears barely wide enough for one car, let alone two traveling in opposite directions. There are no shoulders. There is nowhere to go.
I have driven in England, Scotland, and Wales over the years, and city driving in particular can be genuinely stressful — streets that were built centuries before the automobile are now expected to accommodate two lanes of modern traffic, parked cars on both sides, pedestrians, cyclists, and delivery vehicles all simultaneously. Take it slowly, follow the GPS, and do not be embarrassed to let other drivers go first while you assess the situation. Nobody expects a visitor to know the city streets instinctively.
Country driving has its own set of challenges, and they are different from what you expect.
Sheep
On a previous trip, I was driving through the Scottish Highlands on a winding single-track road — stone walls on both sides, rolling hills blocking the sight lines ahead, the road curling around bend after bend with no visibility beyond the next curve. I was driving at the speed limit, which felt appropriate for the road conditions and the surroundings.
Then I came around a bend and found the road completely covered in sheep.
A farmer was walking his flock across the road from one field to another — a perfectly routine occurrence in the Scottish Highlands. Because I was traveling at a reasonable speed, I had plenty of time to slow down gently and stop without hitting my brakes hard enough to startle the animals. The sheep crossed. The farmer nodded. We all carried on.
A funny story but the practical lesson is serious. In the British countryside — and particularly in Scotland — the unexpected is genuinely unexpected. Sheep on the road. Tractors pulling out of farm gates. Cyclists on roads with no shoulder. Horses being ridden along country lanes. None of these are unusual, and none of them will appear on your GPS.
Drive at a speed that gives you time to react to what you cannot yet see. On a winding Highland road with stone walls and rolling hills limiting your sight lines, the speed limit is a legal maximum — not a recommendation. Your judgment about what is safe given the conditions is what matters, and safe in that environment is slower than you might think.
Be Patient
The protocol for meeting oncoming traffic on a single-track road is straightforward: one car stops in a passing place — a small widened section of road — to allow the other to pass. English and Scottish drivers handle this negotiation calmly and without drama. Follow their lead, be patient, and remember that the person who reaches the passing place first is generally the one who stops.
Speed Limits and Road Signs
Speed limits in England are in miles per hour — not kilometers. However, the sign system is different enough from America that it is worth studying before you drive.
The maximum speed limit in England is 70 mph on motorways and dual carriageways. Single carriageway roads have a national speed limit of 60 mph. In towns and villages the default limit is 30 mph.
The national speed limit sign is a white circle with a single diagonal black stripe through it — no number. When you see this sign, the limit depends on the type of road you are on. This takes some getting used to since American speed limit signs always show a number.
Speed enforcement in England is serious and efficient. Speed cameras are common on all types of roads, and average speed camera zones are increasingly used on motorways — your speed is calculated over an entire stretch of road, meaning that braking for a single camera and then accelerating again will not help you. Drive within the limits. The cameras are not forgiving. My passenger constantly reminded me of upcoming speed cameras.
A few other signs worth knowing before you go. “Give Way” is the British equivalent of yield — unlike a stop sign, a give way sign does not require a full stop if the road is clear, only that you yield to traffic that is already there. Stop signs are relatively rare in England — give way signs do the work that four-way stops do in America. You cannot turn right on a red light in England — a common mistake Americans make.
Road types are designated by letters. Motorways — designated with an “M” — are the largest and fastest roads, with blue signs and white lettering, no traffic lights or roundabouts, and a 70 mph limit. “A” roads are the main roads, generally 60 mph, with green signs. “B” roads are smaller secondary roads, and “C” and “D” roads are rural single-track roads that require particular care.
GPS and Navigation
Do not drive in England without GPS. Do not rely on printed directions. Before you set off from the rental lot, confirm your GPS has a strong position fix and that it is routing correctly for left-hand traffic.
A few practical notes on navigation. Road signs in England are sometimes positioned at the exact point of the turn rather than several hundred feet in advance as Americans expect. Your GPS will often give you more warning than the physical signs. Trust the GPS, but also develop the habit of reading signs as early as possible on approach.
In city centers — particularly Newcastle, which I drove through regularly — one-way systems can be complex. Follow the GPS patiently and do not panic if you make a wrong turn. Simply let the GPS reroute and carry on.
One final GPS tip: before you leave the rental lot, spend a few minutes familiarizing yourself with the controls of the car — mirrors, wipers, headlights, horn. In a right-hand drive car, these are all in slightly different positions than you are used to. The last thing you need is to be looking for the wiper switch in the rain while navigating a roundabout.
The Tyne Tunnel: A Cautionary Tale About Tolls
I need to tell you about the Tyne Tunnel, because it cost me — and the lesson is worth sharing.
The Tyne Tunnel runs under the River Tyne connecting South Shields to the north of the river. I drove through it multiple times during my stay in the area, moving between South Shields and Newcastle without giving it a second thought.
I did not realize it was a toll road.
The toll is only about £2 each way — a genuinely modest amount. But I never paid it. About a month after I returned home to Kentucky, a bill arrived in the mail for over £200 — the accumulated tolls plus substantial late payment fees.
I appealed the charges as I have a disability and travel with a Blue Badge — a European disabled parking and travel permit. There are exemptions for disabled travelers on certain UK toll roads. I made that case in my appeal, and the Tyne Tunnel authority dismissed the charges entirely.
Lesson Learned
I won but the lesson is clear. Watch for toll signs on every bridge you cross and every tunnel you drive through. The signs exist — I simply was not looking for them as an unfamiliar driver focused on traffic and navigation. In England, many toll roads work by registering your number plate automatically rather than collecting payment at a booth. If you pass through without paying at a booth, you typically have 24 hours to pay online — but you must know to look for it.
My advice: when you cross a bridge or enter a tunnel, look for toll signs immediately. If you see one, photograph it or scan the QR code on your phone and pay right then. Two pounds paid on time is infinitely better than two hundred pounds in penalties a month later.
Fuel
Petrol stations — not gas stations — are readily available on motorways and in towns. Fuel is sold in liters rather than gallons, and priced accordingly — do not be alarmed by the number on the pump until you do the conversion. England uses unleaded petrol and diesel. Most rental cars run on unleaded unless your rental agreement specifies otherwise — confirm this before you fill up, as putting diesel in a petrol engine causes serious damage.
Fuel prices in England are considerably higher than in the United States. Budget for it accordingly. As of today, the average cost of unleaded petrol in the UK is 157.99p/litre. Or 612.22p/gallon which is $8.16 US/gallon.
Should You Drive in England?
Yes — with preparation. The freedom that a rental car gives you in England is genuinely worth it. I was able to reach places — coastal villages, countryside roads, historic sites — that public transportation would have made difficult or impossible. The driving itself, once the initial adjustment settles in, is enjoyable.
The keys to success are straightforward: book an automatic transmission explicitly, purchase rental car insurance for an international rental, study the roundabout rules before you drive, watch your speed and the cameras enforcing it, slow down on narrow country roads and be prepared for the genuinely unexpected, use GPS at all times, and watch for toll signs on every bridge and tunnel.
And if you happen to come around a bend in the Scottish Highlands and find a farmer walking his sheep across the road — slow down gently, be patient, and enjoy the moment. It is, after all, exactly the kind of thing you came to see.
Buddy rode in the passenger seat for most of the journey. He had no complaints about the driving and was entirely untroubled by the left-hand traffic.
Which, come to think of it, is exactly the attitude to have.
Buddy and Jordan
Planning to drive in England or Scotland? Leave your questions in the comments below. And for a wonderful alternative for city-to-city travel, see our post: England by Train: Travel Worth Savoring. And for more practical travel advice, join our Newsletter — new posts every week.