Oaxaca

Nestled in the valleys of southern Mexico is Oaxaca. A cultural gem that captivates visitors with a blend of indigenous traditions, colonial architecture, and world-renowned cuisine. The city’s compact historic center makes it wonderfully walkable for retirees. Its vibrant markets, colorful streets, and welcoming atmosphere appeal to first-time travelers seeking an authentic Mexican experience.

Oaxaca is one of the best places to experience Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), Mexico’s most iconic celebration that honors deceased loved ones each November 1st and 2nd. This beautiful tradition transforms the city into a kaleidoscope of marigold flowers, elaborate altars called ofrendas, and joyful cemetery gatherings where families celebrate life and death as interconnected parts of existence. It was a profound cultural experience that manifested the depth of Mexican spirituality and the importance of remembering those who came before us.

I’ve been fascinated with Día de los Muertos for years. It was the top of my bucket list. We finally spent a week in Oaxaca at the end of October in 2023 and it was more than I could have imagined. I left with a deep respect for Mexico, her people and especially her food.

When To Visit:

  • High Season

    • The absolute peak is Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead, October 31 – November 2). Tourists flock from all over the world. Oaxaca truly comes alive. Hotel prices can triple during this time and rooms book out months in advance.
    • December follows closely — with the Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes, December 23) and the Guelaguetza festival (two weeks in July). Large crowds and perfect weather of dry, mild days and cool nights.
    • Semana Santa (Holy Week, Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, late March to mid-April). The entire week is one of Mexico’s most important vacation weeks. Domestic tourism floods in and hotel prices spike significantly, booking out months in advance. It is an often overlooked hidden peak season.
    • The Guelaguetza festival  in July, is a short spike during the low season. A grand celebration of indigenous dance and culture.

  • Shoulder Season

    • February through May
    • Fewer crowds, prices drop noticeably and the weather is dry and warm (though it can get dry and dusty April-May).
    • Walk the Zocal and browse the markets without fighting through tour groups. If you fancy a Mezcal tasting in the central valley, the distilleries are wonderfully absent the tourists.

  • Low Season

    • June through September, which is their rainy season.
    • Expect afternoon showers and high humidity, with possible road closures.
    • However, the rain results in the much, green Sierra Juarez mountains, which is great if you enjoy hiking.

  • Best Times

    • February or March is ideal to experience Oaxaca without the crowds and the best balance of good weather, authentic atmosphere and fair prices.
    • Save up for Día de los Muertos at least once in your life — it will change you, as you will see in this post.

Activities

  Church of Santo Domingo   

Located in the heart of Oaxaca, central to all the festivities, is the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. An incredible example of New Spanish Baroque architecture.  Though construction began in 1575, it took over a century to finish. It remains active for worship and is adjacent to the Oaxaca Museum of Cultures. The interior is breathtaking, with over 60,000 sheets of 24-carat gold leaf. It is spectacular at night when they have a light show. Pictures does not do the interior justice.

           

There are numerous churches and cathedrals in Oaxaca. Each one is mesmerizing with their architecture and history. The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, Church of the Precious Blood of Christ and Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel are must visits. All within walking distance of each other.

  Colorful Buildings and Street Art     

The best neighborhoods for street art include Jalatlaco, Xochimilco, and areas around the Church of Santo Domingo. The art celebrates Mexican culture, ancestors, their indigenous identity, and Día de los Muertos imagery. Murals range from small detailed pieces to massive wall-coverings. These vibrant colors create the cheerful, photogenic streetscapes and skyline Oaxaca is famous for.

   

The streets come alive with live music, food vendors, and mezcal flowing freely during Dia de los Muertos celebrations. The atmosphere is truly festive. It’s a fascinating blend of spirituality and epic street parties, where ancient rituals meet modern celebration. The beautiful dresses and elaborate costumes were amazing.

  Face Painting      

Painting your face during Día de los Muertos is one of the most iconic and enjoyable ways for both locals and visitors to participate in the celebration. Face painting for Dia de los Muertos originated in the early 1900s when La Catrina was created by artist Jose Guadalupe Posada. The distinctive skull face paint, marigold flower headpiece, and colorful dress was meant as a defiant stand against European influence. By the 1940s, La Catrina became the iconic symbol of Día de los Muertos, representing both the celebration of death and Mexican cultural identity.

You can get your face painted on the streets in front of and around the Church of Santo Domingo where all the vendors setup.  The lady on the left was one of the face painters and a walking billboard for her work. You can get a full face painting, with the skull completely covering your face. Or choose a half (media) face painting where only one side of your face is painted. This signifies honor to both the living and the dead. It cost between $5 and $10 depending on how elaborate you wanted, and took 20 minutes for mine. The artists have a book of designs to make it easier to choose from if you don’t know what you want. I went with the “Catrin” full face painting. My friend Dima chose the “Catrina” full face painting and she wore it very well!

  20 November Market   

Located just one block from the Zócalo (main plaza) is Mercado 20 de Noviembre. This market dates back to 1862 and is named after the date the Mexican Revolution  began in 1910. This is one of the most complete markets in Oaxaca, offering everything from produce and meats to crafts and souvenirs. Be warned, it is massive, occupying an entire city block! I got lost in the market several times. For your first time visiting, we recommend hiring a local guide. Ours gave us a tour, showed us areas we likely would not have explored on our own and arranged a wonderful lunch.

Some of the top things to buy are local mole paste, Oaxacan coffee and chocolate customized at the molinos (grinders), mezcal, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), and chapulines (grasshoppers). There are huge bins full of grasshoppers, crickets and insects you can buy. The market has both indoor and outdoor sections, with the indoor area generally cleaner and more organized. You can literally spend an entire day in this market, shopping, eating, drinking and browsing. It was the biggest market we had ever been in.

   

  Memelas Dona Vale   

Our guide took us to visit the world famous Dona Vale, who makes her signature memelas topped with asiento and her salsa morita. She was featured in Netflix’s “Street Food: Latin America” and highlighted by Phil Rosenthal on “Somebody Feed Phil.” We only stopped by to say hi and see her in action. The line is usually 30 minutes or more for her table.

  Local Shopping   

Oaxaca’s historic center is wonderfully walkable. Nearly everything worth seeing sits within a 10 to 15-block radius of the zócalo. You can stroll from the main square to the Church of Santo Domingo, browse the markets, duck into a museum, and stop for a coffee or mezcal without ever feeling like you’ve overextended yourself. The streets are lined with local shops and artisan vendors selling beautiful Oaxacan crafts. During Día de los Muertos, Calles Macedonia Alcalá, Antonio Labastida, 5 de Mayo, and De la Constitución transform into a festive, color-saturated corridor of stalls and storefronts that can only be described as glorious shopping overload.

One thing to prepare for, however, are the cobblestone streets that wind throughout the entire historic center. They are undeniably beautiful and deeply characteristic of old Oaxaca — but they are uneven, and can become slippery after rain. Do yourself a favor and wear sturdy, supportive footwear. Tennis shoes or proper walking shoes are ideal. During our visit we noticed many travelers, particularly older visitors, using walking sticks or trekking poles for extra stability on the stones — a genuinely smart move and nothing to think twice about.

  Ofrendas     

One of the most visually stunning sights we encountered were the Ofrendas – alters or offerings, central to Mexican tradition. They’re created to welcome back the spirits of deceased loved ones who are believed to visit during this time. It’s a beautiful, joyful celebration of life and memory. They typically have photos of the departed, marigolds, candles, incense, sweet bread, water, salt, sugar skulls and things that person loved. The Indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec traditions run very deep in Oaxaca and the ofrendas were particularly vibrant. The time, effort and love people and families put into those ofrendas was evident. We were mesmerized.

  Weddings       

One thing we saw a lot of during our stay, were weddings. At least one wedding each day, often several. Unlike what we’re used to, I Oaxaca they’re not just ceremonies — they’re festivals full of tradition, food, dance, and community spirit. They blend Catholic ritual, indigenous traditions and incredible energy. A Mexican marriage is treated as a union of families and neighborhoods, not just two people. Guests don’t just attend — they participate. It’s normal for weddings to last all day… and most of the night… and sometimes continue the next day with more food and music. A wedding lasting several days? Mind boggling for me.

Many weddings include a Calenda — a parade through the streets announcing the celebration. It’s a moving party escorting the couple and guests. There are huge dancing puppets, giant paper globes, bands, fireworks, guests dancing behind the couple, and Mezcal passed around. Yes, Mezcal, and I had some during a wedding procession. Incredible.

Weddings around Dia de los Muertos are especially emotional and symbolic in Oaxaca. This time is about remembering ancestors and inviting their spirits close — so couples often feel they’re marrying with their loved ones present in spirit. There were wedding ofrendas, marigold flowers, Calenda blending wedding joy with Day of the Dead imagery, and of course face paint. during this time the marriage is connected across generations – past, present and future, which locals consider very powerful and blessed.

  Cemeteries   

No visit to Oaxaca during Dia de los Muertos is complete without visiting Panteon General – General Cemetery. Walking East on Constitution Street past the Church of Santo Domingo we began our trek. Taking a right on Republic Road then left on Refuge Street, we arrived at the panteon. It was unlike any cemetery we’ve ever seen. The flowers, colors and vibrancy was very moving. It was worth the 30 minute walk. We were of course, respectful since it was a cemetery, as you should be. Panteon General is one of Oaxaca’s main cemeteries. Graves covered in marigolds and beautiful flowers, candles, and items of the departed. The graves are so close together and each one was lovely. It was almost too much to take in. We stayed for an hour just in awe.

With all this walking and sightseeing and shopping every day, we of course worked up an appetite.

Food

I’ve always loved Mexican food but wanted to taste authentic food and it was amazing. Food lovers will delight in Oxaca’s different moles, fresh tlayudas, and Mezcal. There are so many good places to eat in Oaxaca, you will be overwhelmed. This were our favorites:

  Gozobi   

Some meals find you by chance, and those are often the ones you remember longest. On our first day in Oaxaca, we chose Gozobi purely for its rooftop location — one block from the Church of Santo Domingo — hoping for a good view and a decent lunch. What we got was so much more.

The rooftop corner setting was immediately captivating, with an open-air atmosphere that makes you forget you had anywhere else to be. I started with a mezcal — sipped slowly alongside a glass of water, the way it deserves to be enjoyed — and settled into what would turn out to be a genuinely wonderful meal. The beef and vegetable main course was beautifully prepared, fresh, and deeply satisfying. And then came the cheesecake with fruit for dessert — a perfect, indulgent finish that we absolutely did not see coming.

We arrived Gozobi with modest expectations and left thoroughly impressed. The staff were warm and attentive, the food quality was far above what you might expect from a rooftop lunch spot, and the views over the historic centro were simply gorgeous. If this was day one, we thought, Oaxaca is going to be very good to us indeed.

  20 November Market     

One of the true highlights of our trip was a food tour through the 20 November Market.  Lunch here was nothing short of spectacular. We gathered around an open fire as our vendor, warm and full of personality, grilled our food right before our eyes. There’s something almost magical about watching a meal come to life that way — no shortcuts, no modern gadgets, just fire, skill, and tradition passed down through generations.

As the tour wound down, we had one more culinary adventure waiting: chapulines — toasted grasshoppers — tucked right into our tamales. Spicy, crunchy, and genuinely delicious, they’re one of Oaxaca’s most beloved snacks and a rite of passage for any curious food lover. It’s the kind of bite that surprises you, then wins you over completely. Shall we just say… it’s not for the faint of heart — but for the bold? It’s absolutely unforgettable.

       

  Pan: Am Abasolo 

Tucked just a short stroll from the Church of Santo Domingo, Pan Am Abasolo is the kind of place you stumble upon and immediately want to keep as your own little secret. Set inside a vibrant, color-drenched courtyard — Oaxacan in every way — this charming bakery and café invites you to slow down and simply be present.

Brunch here was a genuine delight. A bowl of fresh berries and creamy yogurt arrived alongside a beautifully prepared mole and cheese dish. The coffee was excellent, as it should be in a city that takes its café de olla seriously. And then there’s the bakery case: a gorgeous, tempting spread of sweet pastries that makes choosing just one an almost impossible task.

If your feet need a rest and your soul needs a dose of color and calm mid-exploration, Pan Am Abasolo is exactly where you want to be.

  Black Coffee Gallery   

Speaking of coffee, the Black Coffee Gallery is a great place to relax, have a great latte and dessert, and plug in and charge your phone as you as wandering Oaxaca. The chairs were comfortable and I love the artwork and vibe. It’s also a great meeting place.

Casa De Apolonia     

Another beautiful rooftop restaurant, with amazing food. The appetizer, with Mezcal (of course) was just right and the sandwich with mole was delicious. A very relaxing atmosphere with an incredible view of the Church of Santo Domingo.

Lodging

  Casa de las Flores Hotel    

For our stay, we chose Casa de las Flores Hotel, a well-maintained property a short walk from the Church of Santo Domingo and right in the heart of all the Día de los Muertos festivities. The room was comfortable and thoughtfully kept — a good bed, generous closet space, and the kind of quiet cleanliness that tells you a hotel takes pride in what it does. The staff, though Spanish-speaking only, were warm and helpful, and a little effort with even basic Spanish goes a long way in building those small but memorable connections with the people who take care of you.

A word of honest advice on pricing: as noted above, Día de los Muertos is peak season in Oaxaca, and room rates reflect that sharply — ours ran nearly three times the standard rate, even with early booking. It stings a little, but when you’re enjoying the festivities and parades near you, it’s impossible to call it anything other than worth it. Oaxaca has a wide range of accommodation options across every budget and style, so do your research carefully, book as early as you possibly can for festival periods, and choose based on your own priorities — location, price, amenities, or all three. The right hotel makes a real difference to your overall experience.

Truly Mesmerizing

Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos is, quite simply, one of those travel experiences that resets your understanding of what a trip can be. Lively, colorful, deeply moving, and utterly alive — it is the kind of place that gets under your skin in the best possible way. The food alone would justify the journey: authentic, complex, and proudly rooted in tradition, from the smoky depths of a proper mezcal to the rich layers of a handmade mole that has been perfected over generations. This is not cuisine you forget.

We came to Oaxaca for a festival and left with something far greater — a genuine love for this city, its people, its streets, and its soul. The marigolds will fade, the altars will come down, and the cobblestones will go quiet again — but the memories of this trip will not. I will be back, though next time I plan to arrive in the low season, when the city exhales, the crowds thin, and Oaxaca reveals itself at its own unhurried pace. Some places deserve to be experienced more than once, and differently each time. Oaxaca is absolutely one of them.

Buddy and Jordan