Faro

The capital of the Algarve region, Faro has an incredible, layered history stretching back over two thousand years. Originally settled by the Romans, who named it Ossonoba, the city later flourished under Moorish rule for over five centuries. The Portuguese reconquered Faro in 1249 under King Afonso III, re-establishing Christianity. In 1596, the Earl of Essex launched a devastating raid, sacking and burning much of of the city. The city was rebuilt only to suffer another blow with the great earthquake of 1755. Faro rose again from the earthquake, with the capital of the Algarve being moved from Lagos to Faro. Bishop Francisco Gomes de Avelar was instrumental in Faro’s reconstruction, using the Church’s wealth to restore important landmarks (algarvetips.com).

Today, Faro serves as the Algarve’s political and economic hub, housing the University of the Algarve, and with its international airport, it’s the primary gateway to one of Europe’s top holiday destinations.  Its charming Cidade Velha (Old Town), surrounded by ancient Moorish walls, and  beautiful Ria Formosa Natural Park — a vast lagoon system stretching along the coastline — make Faro a must see a destination.

In our quest to find a retirement vacation home in the next 5 years, Portugal has been our preferred country. We fell in love with Faro. Located on the southern tip of Portugal, it has a population of just over 70,000 and covers 78 square miles (202 km²) (city population.de). This is our ideal location – a much smaller city with low population that is quite walkable with a lot of stores, activities, architecture, history and beautiful weather. It has an international airport and connects to the rest of Portugal via road and rail.

When To Visit:

• High Season

  • June to August is when Faro and the Algarve is busiest.
  • The weather is hot and sunny (temperatures regularly reaching (86-95°F (30–35°C), the beaches are packed, and prices for accommodation and flights peak.
  • If you love a lively atmosphere and don’t mind crowds and higher costs, this is the time to come.

• Shoulder Seasons

  • April to May and September to October.
  • The weather is warm and pleasant (68-82°F / 20–28°C), the crowds thin out noticeably and prices drop.

  • The natural landscape is either blooming beautifully in spring or glowing golden in autumn. September in particular still offers excellent beach weather with far fewer tourists.

• Low Season

  • November to March is when Faro becomes delightfully quiet and authentically local.
  • Temperatures are mild (54–64°F / 12–18°C), rarely dropping below 50°F/ 10°C.
  • This season is great for hiking, birdwatching in the Ria Formosa, cycling, and golf. However, some restaurants and businesses reduce their hours or close entirely.

• Best Times

  • Late May or September offers the best of everything.
  • Gorgeous warm weather, calm seas, lower prices, and the real soul of Faro and the Algarve without the summer crowds.
  • September is especially magical, as the ocean is at its warmest after a full summer of sunshine!

Activities:

  Train from Lisbon  

We took the CP (Comboios de Portugal) Intercity (IC) train from Lisboa Oriente to Faro. It was an enjoyable 3½ hour trip and we got to see the beautiful countryside of Portugal.

When we arrived at 6:00pm, it was pouring rain. Ubers were plentiful and after a quick 5 minute ride to our hotel, we started drying off and getting settled. There was actually torrential rains that night but we had no idea as we slept sound in our hotel. That was the only rain we experienced during our trip.

  Old Town           

The Cidade Velha (Old Town) is the heart and soul of Faro. It sits right alongside the harbor and Ria Formosa lagoon.  Most people enter from the Manuel Bivar garden through the Arco da Vila. This neoclassical archway replaced an older Moorish gate. The beautiful architecture, iron balconies, cobblestone streets and colorful buildings truly make it unique. In the heart of the old town is the Faro Cathedral. We talk about that below. The old town is pretty compact and very walkable in one or two hours, depending how long you wish to enjoy all of the sights. You can take all afternoon as well, with a coffee in one of their numerous cafes. Pictures do not do it justice.

       

  Arch of Rest    

A 15-minute walk from our hotel and we came to the Arco do Repouso (Arch of Rest).  The medieval gateway to the east and one of the original entry points into the walled city. Legend has it that King Alfonso III of Portugal, who, upon reconquering Faro from the Moors in 1249, was so overcome with relief, joy and exhaustion, he stopped and rested at this arch before entering the city in triumph. His moment of repose. There are several beautiful stone murals of his triumph in the courtyard. So stop, touch the stones and reflect you are where King Alfonso III rested almost 800 years ago.

 Faro Cathedral  

The truly magnificent Sé Catedral de Faro is the soul of the city with almost 800 years of history within its walls! What makes this cathedral so unique is what stood on this very spot before it was built. The site was first a Roman temple, then a Moorish mosque during the centuries of Islamic rule, and then in 1249 – when King Afonso III reconquered Faro – it was converted into a Christian cathedral. Three great civilizations on one sacred site. The original Gothic cathedral was terribly damaged by the Earl of Essex in 1596, and then again by the earthquake of 1755. Today it is a beautiful patchwork of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements — each representing significantly different periods of rebuilding and restoration.

Inside are the late 17th century azulejo tiles decorating the chapels, gilded Baroque woodwork on the side chapels, and all of the gold. We were in awe! There is a small but quite engaging museum housing religious art, sculpture and treasures collected over centuries. So much to see with all of the pieces of local history there. The pipe organ is truly amazing. I can only imagine how beautiful it sounds. Pictures are so inadequate to capture the grandeur and vibe. Plan to spend an hour or two, at least.

The View of Old Town

After you’ve toured the insides, it’s time to climb the cathedral tower steps. The views from the top over the Largo da Sé, the Old Town rooftops, and the shimmering Ria Formosa lagoon stretching out to the Atlantic are simply unforgettable. It is the single best viewpoint in central Faro! On a fairly clear day you can see the planes landing at Faro’s international airport. Definitely worth the climb and a must see if you are in Faro.

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Rua de Santo Antonio

Faro’s principal pedestrian shopping street. We walked this street everyday from our hotel to the harbor area. The street runs from near the Jardim Manuel Bivar up toward the Old Town walls, making it a natural part of any walking tour of central Faro. There is an incredible mix of shopping experiences, including Portuguese and international clothing boutiques, shoe shops, jewelry and accessory stores. Of course there are the cafés, pastelarias, and souvenir and gift shops. Be on the lookout for cork products since Portugal produces over 50% of the world’s cork. What we loved most about the street was the cobblestone pavement, the traditional Portuguese azulejo tiled facades on the buildings, and all the colorful doors. It all creates a wonderfully relaxed Southern Portuguese atmosphere. Note for shoppers: most stores are closed on Sundays, so plan your shopping accordingly.

Faro Marina and Harbor  

The Faro Marina and Harbour is the heart of modern Faro and one of the most relaxing spots in the entire city! From the Romans to the Moors to the Portuguese, this waterfront was always Faro’s vital connection to the sea, to trade, and to the world. Everything that made Faro prosperous and important — fish, goods, travelers, merchants — arrived and departed through this harbor. Today the harbor is a beautiful and relaxed marina sitting right between the Jardim Manuel Bivar, the Old Town walls, and the shimmering waters of the Ria Formosa. It is completely free to visit and open 24 hours, making it perfect at any time of day or night.

The harbor area offers something for everyone — rows of beautiful sailing boats and motor yachts bobbing gently in the water, a lovely waterfront promenade lined with palm trees perfect for evening strolls, several excellent cafés, bars and restaurants with waterfront terraces, and a small but charming street market that appears regularly between the marina and the Old Town. We were here every day, either relaxing, having lunch or dinner outdoors enjoying the view or browsing the local vendors. There are three best times to visit here. The morning is peaceful with fishermen and locals starting their day. Lunchtime is perfect for a relaxing waterfront meal. Sunset is absolutely stunning with light reflecting on the water and the glow of the Old Town walls close by.

 Garden of Manuel Bivar      

Jardim Manuel Bivar (Garden of Manuel Bivar) was one of our favorite spots in Faro. It is a central garden named after Mauel Bivar, a 19th century local political and public figure. There are places for kids to play, numerous benches to relax and read a book, and the vendors set up on the street bordering its south. It also connects four of Faro’s most important areas in one spot. The harbor and marina to one side, the Arco da Vila and Old Town entrance directly behind it, the Rua de Santo António shopping street leading off it, and the Praça Dom Francisco Gomes — the main civic square surrounding it. If we ever got lost walking around and came here, we knew exactly where we were.

The marina and harbor is also the boat tour departure point for excursions into the Ria Formosa. The Ria Formosa Natural Park is a the vast, protected lagoon system stretching along the coast. Boat tours depart regularly to the beautiful barrier islands including Ilha Deserta (Desert Island), Ilha de Faro, and Ilha do Farol. Here is where you will find pristine beaches, crystal clear waters and incredible birdlife. This is one of the absolute highlights of any visit to Faro!

Igreja do Carmo

The Igreja da Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo — which translates as the “Church of the Third Order of Our Lady of Mount Carmel” — though everyone in Faro simply calls it the Igreja do Carmo – Church of Our Lady Carmo. Completed in 1713 by the Carmelite Odrder, it’s said to be one of the most impressive Baroque churches in all the Algarve. It was about a 15 minute walk uphill from the Old Town.

The first thing we noticed was the twin towered Baroque front entrance, with an elaborate stonework frame. The beautiful tile pattern leading up to the church made it even more impressive. Inside, the interior is almost overwhelming in a good way. The church is decorated in the classic Portuguese Baroque style with extraordinary gilded woodwork — known as talha dourada — covering the altars and side chapels from floor to ceiling. It is opulent, golden, deeply devotional and utterly magnificent. The main altar in particular is a masterpiece of gilded Baroque craftsmanship that genuinely takes your breath away. Buddy was in awe!  The Igreja do Carmo in Faro is considered one of the finest examples of Carmelite religious architecture in the south of Portugal.

Bone Chapel        

The Capela dos Ossos (Bone Chapel)  is a small but utterly unforgettable chapel located next to the Igreja do Carmo. It was built in the 17th century at the initiative of three Franciscan monks who wanted to create a powerful and sobering reminder about the transience of human life and the inevitability of death. The walls, ceiling, and columns of the chapel are quite literally decorated with over 1,200 human skulls and bones, all gathered from the city’s cemeteries. It is a deeply contemplative space — small, dimly lit, and extraordinarily atmospheric. Above the entrance, an inscription reminds visitors of their own mortality in true Franciscan tradition. Buddy and I were both speechless! This is an absolute must see, and for the same admission ticket to the Church of Our Lady of Carmo, you can immerse yourself in the Bone Chapel.

  The Hermitage of Saint Anthony on High 

The Ermida de Santo António do Alto is a hidden gem that many tourists walk past. We discovered it literally by stumbling upon it on our walk around the town. Ermida means hermitage — a small, simple chapel originally built as a place of quiet religious contemplation and solitude, away from the bustle of the town. Dating back to the 18th century, built in Baroque style, and perched on one of the highest points in Faro. The interior is, as you would imagine of the Portuguese Baroque style – stunning carved woodwork gilded in gold. What makes this place truly special is the view from the bell tower. Climb the stairs to the roof then continue up the narrow, iron steps to the bell tower for one of the most spectacular panoramic views in all of Faro. Breathtaking!

There is also the Museu Antonino next to it with a collection of images, paintings and engravings relating to Saint Anthony. In Portugal, Saint Anthony is considered the patron saint of lost things, of unmarried men and women looking for a spouse, and of the newly married. So if you’ve lost something or are looking for love, this is the hermitage to visit. Say what you will but all I know is that we visited the Hermitage on October 31 and on December 20th I was married.

Food:

  Zorba the Greek          

What a wonderful way to begin our first full day in Faro! Just three minutes from our hotel and entirely by chance, we stumbled upon Zorba the Greek — and what a discovery it turned out to be. The outdoor seating caught our eye, perfectly positioned to soak up the sights and sounds of the surrounding area. We settled in, ordered a round of ouzo and water in true Greek tradition, and let the relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere wash over us — which, in the heart of the Algarve, felt entirely natural!

Having lived in Greece for a year, I can say with confidence that this is the real deal. Authentic Greek food, beautifully prepared and seasoned with a genuine lightness of touch. The pork gyro was outstanding — tender, perfectly seasoned and wonderfully filling. Paired with a crisp light white wine, it reminded me so much of Greece. We were in no rush — as one never should be in Southern Portugal — so we lingered, enjoyed the view, and rounded off a perfect meal with a delicious, honey-sweet baklava that was an ideal finishing touch. An authentic Greek restaurant in the middle of Faro? It absolutely works — and then some!

 Restaurant Cidade Velha        

Strolling through the ancient cobblestone streets of Faro’s Cidade Velha one evening, we stumbled upon this wonderful restaurant and instinctively knew we had found something special. We chose the outdoor terrace, nestled right beside the Faro Chapel in the heart of the Old Town, and the atmosphere was simply enchanting — historic walls all around us and that unmistakeable magic that only the Algarve conjures after dark.

The Algarve style fish soup was beautifully crafted and full of local flavour. The grilled sea bass that followed was quite simply outstanding — perfectly cooked and delicate in the way that only truly fresh fish can be. Paired with a glass of Monte da Ria Arinta, a lovely local Algarve wine, this was one of the finest seafood dinners we have enjoyed in recent memory. A silky Crème Brûlée with a glass of Porto Port wine brought the evening to a perfect close. The restaurant also offers a rooftop terrace with breathtaking views over the Old Town — something we look forward to experiencing on a return visit! If you are visiting Faro’s Old Town — this is an absolute must stop.

 Pastelaria Gardy     

Rua de Santo António is Faro’s beloved main pedestrian shopping street — a charming, cobblestoned thoroughfare lined with boutiques, cafés and restaurants. Among all these wonderful options, our undisputed favorite stop was the Pastelaria Gardy. We came specifically to try Portugal’s legendary Pastel de Nata — and it surpassed every expectation. We had heard a great deal about this iconic little custard tart, but nothing quite prepares you for the real thing. Warm, flaky, perfectly golden and utterly delicious — it is one of those rare food experiences that genuinely lives up to the hype and then some. As devoted lovers of all things sweet, we also indulged in a wonderful custard with raspberries that was equally sublime.

We could quite easily have had more than two Pastéis de Nata — but we showed admirable restraint! Though we did visit several times during our stay. Beyond the exceptional food, Pastelaria Gardy offers something equally valuable — the perfect people watching perch on one of Faro’s busiest and most colorful streets. Sit back, order another coffee, and let the vibrant street life of the Algarve unfold before you. Wonderful food, wonderful atmosphere — pure Portugal at its very best.

 Columbus Culinary Bar    

Without question one of the finest dining experiences we had in Faro — and that is saying something in a city that punches well above its weight when it comes to food. We began with the Codfish Cake appetizer — a nod to Portugal’s most beloved ingredient, beautifully prepared and a perfect way to open the meal. The main course, a Grilled Grain-Fed Ribeye cooked to a perfect medium, was everything a great steak should be. What truly elevated the dish was its accompaniment — a rice and pumpkin risotto that was quite simply one of the finest rice dishes we have encountered anywhere.

The undisputed highlight however came at dessert — a Crème Brûlée infused with coconut and mango paired with a glass of rich red Port wine. Inspired, tropical and utterly delicious — a perfect finishing touch just steps from the Faro marina. The staff were warm and attentive throughout and the prices were remarkably reasonable for the quality on offer. A genuine must visit!

 O Coreto Restaurant      

There could not have been a more fitting way to spend our last evening in Faro than dinner at O Coreto — perfectly situated between the Jardim Manuel Bivar and the marina, with the evening lights reflecting off the water and locals strolling along the harbor promenade. We took our time and simply soaked in the atmosphere while reflecting on a truly wonderful stay in Faro. We opened with tempura shrimp with sweet chili sauce, paired with a crisp Quinta de São Sebastião Chardonnay. Being in a seaside city, fresh seafood was always going to be the order of the evening, and the grilled fresh cod fillet with potatoes delivered perfectly — light, tender and full of delicate flavor, complemented elegantly by the same Chardonnay.

As devoted chocolate lovers, dessert was never going to be subtle — a crepe with hot chocolate and chocolate ice cream proved a delightfully indulgent finale. Paired with a glass of local Port wine — because when in Portugal, a local Port with dessert is simply non negotiable — it was a wonderfully satisfying close to a memorable meal. A perfect last dinner on the harbor, in a city that had exceeded every expectation. Faro at its very best.

Lodging:

  Lemon Tree Stay

The moment you step through the door, you’re greeted by the beautiful lemon tree in the entrance — from which this charming B&B takes its name. We selected the Lemon Tree Stay primarily for its outstanding location. Sitting just off the Rua de Santo António, Faro’s beloved main shopping street is a mere 2 minute stroll away. The marina is a leisurely 10 minutes on foot, the Faro Cathedral and Old Town a pleasant 10 minute walk, and even the Igreja do Carmo and Bone Chapel are comfortably reached in around 15 minutes. For anyone wanting to explore Faro thoroughly on foot, this is simply the perfect base.

Our room was lovely and comfortable, and the made to order breakfasts were a genuine highlight — fresh, delicious and a wonderful way to start each day of exploration. The 24 hour self-serve kitchen was perfect for a late evening cup of tea or coffee after a long and rewarding day discovering the city. Above all, the staff were warm, friendly and genuinely helpful throughout our stay — exactly what you hope for in a great B&B. We would return without hesitation — and most importantly, it came with the highest possible endorsement from our most discerning travel companion! Buddy approved.

Recommendations

• We chose Lemon Tree Stay due to its location for what we wanted. Very nice and a good value, especially for a larger room.
• As a popular tourist destination, accommodations are plentiful. Here are some of our recommendations:
  • Occidental Faro. Rated one of the best hotels in Faro, it is right between the marina and Old Town, mere steps from everything. Amazing rooftop restaurant.
  • AP Eva Sense Hotel. A 4-star hotel overlooking the marina with one of the best breakfast buffets. Spacious rooms and very reasonable prices.
  • Casa Apollo Guesthouse. Highly rated beautiful boutique guesthouse, with outstanding breakfasts and a gorgeous garden. Minutes from everything.
  • Stay Hotel Faro Centro. One of the best value hotels in Faro, just off Rua de Santo Antonio. Clean, no frills and great for practical travelers.
  • Dear Faro Guest House. Modern guesthouse with a lovely communal kitchen. Rooftop terrace, quiet and central. A great alternative to larger hotels.

Faro, Portugal – A Hidden Gem of the Algarve

Having previously visited Albufeira and fallen in love with the Algarve, we arrived in Faro with high expectations. What we did not expect was to be so completely and utterly captivated.

Faro is not Lisbon — it does not overwhelm you with its scale and intensity. Nor is it Albufeira — no nightclubs or crowded strip bars. Faro offers something altogether more rare and precious — an authentically Portuguese city of genuine charm, layered history, stunning architecture and a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere that simply refuses to let go.

Walking the ancient cobblestone streets of the walled Cidade Velha — where Moors, Romans and Portuguese kings walked — you feel the weight of centuries beneath your feet. The magnificent Cathedral, the haunting Bone Chapel, the medieval gateways, and the sun drenched squares. Faro rewards the curious and the unhurried at every turn. Yet for all its history, Faro is wonderfully alive. The locals are warm and genuine, the food scene exceptional, the marina magical at sunset and the Ria Formosa Natural Park — one of Europe’s most extraordinary coastal lagoon systems — stretches magnificently along the city’s doorstep.</p>

This was a get off the grid experience in the very best sense. Faro gently and irresistibly encourages you to slow down and simply be present. Prices were reasonable, the CP train connects the city conveniently to the rest of Portugal, and everything worth seeing is comfortably within walking distance.</p>

Long Term

For those considering a longer term relationship with this remarkable city — and we are very much among them — Faro has everything one could need. The Mercado Municipal, the city’s wonderful covered market, has served locals with the finest fresh produce, fish and bread every morning for generations. The city even boasts its own professional football club — Sport Clube Farense — competing in Portugal’s top flight Primeira Liga. Big city features, small city soul.

If you are visiting Portugal’s Algarve and you are not planning to spend time in Faro — change your plans. You will not regret it for a single moment.

Buddy and Jordan

Have you visited Faro? We’d love to hear about your experience in the comments. If you found this helpful, join our Newsletter for weekly travel tips delivered straight to your inbox.